The Map

Where We've Been

Eight years, one van, and every one of the lower forty-eight, drawn the slow way.

We never set out to collect states. But the map filled in mile by mile: a season in the desert, a summer chasing alpenglow, wrong turns that became the whole point. The pulsing pins mark the places that changed us: click one and the story opens, photo and all. Or just keep scrolling and let the map do the driving.

Map of the United States with all 48 continental states highlighted as visited
Take the drive Nine stops, eight years, every kind of road.
Sunset light on the granite walls of Yosemite Valley
Stop 1 of 9 · California

Last Light in Yosemite

We'd seen the photos our whole lives; none of them prepare you for the scale. We stayed until the last light left the granite and drove out of the valley in the dark, not talking, the way you leave a place that just rearranged something in you.

See more from the road →
Sea stacks along the Oregon coast at dusk
Stop 2 of 9 · Oregon

Highway 101, No Hurry

We drove the Oregon coast slower than any road before it. Every pull-out was another sea stack, another beach with nobody on it. The fog rolls in, the coffee gets refilled, and you stop pretending you have somewhere else to be.

See more from the road →
Sitting at an overlook above the clouds facing Mount Rainier
Stop 3 of 9 · Washington

The Overlook Above Rainier

Some mornings you slide the van door open and Rainier is just there, enormous and patient, close enough to feel. We sat above the clouds while the coffee went cold and didn't say much. Washington kept doing that to us.

What Nobody Tells You Before You Start Van Life →
Standing at the edge of Grinnell Glacier above a turquoise lake
Stop 4 of 9 · Montana

The Edge of Grinnell Glacier

The trail to Grinnell climbs past lakes so turquoise they look printed, and ends at the edge of ice that has been quietly leaving for a century. People kept telling us we were getting too old for this. The glacier disagreed.

Who Told You It Was Too Late to Travel? →
A still alpine lake below the Teton range
Stop 5 of 9 · Wyoming

The Van Below the Tetons

No mountains announce themselves like the Tetons: no foothills, no warning, just the valley floor and then straight up. We woke below them beside a lake so still it doubled the whole range.

A Day in the Life of Van Living →
The van on a mountain road surrounded by golden aspens
Stop 6 of 9 · Colorado

Two Weeks Chasing Aspens

We chased the aspens for two weeks, whole mountainsides going gold a ridge at a time, and us rerouting every morning to stay inside it. Colorado in October is the best argument for a house on wheels we know.

Designing a Life That Moves →
The van parked at the edge of Lake Powell, red rock behind
Stop 7 of 9 · Utah

Camped at Lake Powell

We parked close enough to hear the water: red rock, glass-flat blue, and a silence that took a day to get used to. Some campsites you leave and forget. That one we still talk about.

The Honest Reality of Full-Time Van Life →
Light beams inside the sandstone curves of Antelope Canyon
Stop 8 of 9 · Arizona

Slot Canyons & Red Rocks

Antelope Canyon is what happens when water is given a few million years and no deadline. Light falls in beams and the walls curve like something poured. An hour south, Sedona glows like it's lit from the inside. Arizona kept humbling us.

The Miles Will Shape You →
Karlee walking the white gypsum dunes at White Sands
Stop 9 of 9 · New Mexico

The Dunes at White Sands

White gypsum to every horizon, cool underfoot even in the heat. We ran the dunes barefoot like kids, two people well past the age the world says this is for, having the best afternoon of the year.

Travel in Your 30s, 40s & Beyond →
World map with the countries we have traveled together highlighted
Farther Afield

Then We Bought One-Way Tickets

Eight months across Southeast Asia with one-way tickets and no itinerary worth defending. And in sage, the chapters we lived before we found each other: Jesse's month in South Africa, Karlee's five seasons on St. John.

Fly the loop Eight countries, eight months, one-way tickets.
Golden temple rooftops in Chiang Mai
Leg 1 of 8 · Thailand

Where the Trip Became a Life

Chiang Mai was the first place in Asia that felt like ours: morning markets, gold rooftops, seventy-cent noodles eaten standing up. It's where eight months stopped being a plan and started being a life.

Eight Months in Southeast Asia →
A riverside village in Laos
Leg 2 of 8 · Laos

The River That Gave and Took

Two days on a slow boat down the Mekong: car bench seats, a roaring engine, and time moving the way the river decided it would. Some of what happened on that water still sits with us.

The River That Gave and Took →
The bánh mì shop in Hanoi under a yellow tree and red lanterns
Leg 3 of 8 · Vietnam

A Plastic Stool in Hanoi

We smelled it before we saw it. Pork fat and charred bread, drifting through Hanoi at dusk. Under a wide yellow tree and a string of red lanterns: tiny plastic stools, a patient crowd, and the best sandwich of our lives. We got in line without discussing it.

A Plastic Stool in Hanoi →
Leg 4 of 8 · Cambodia

The Wrong Beach, Twice as Nice

We ferried out to Koh Rong and landed on the wrong beach for us: younger, louder, somebody else's good time. So we went back to Sihanoukville, to a hotel that got every small detail right, and stayed two extra nights for no better reason than that. Eight months on the road teaches you when to quit a plan.

Eight Months in Southeast Asia →
Leg 5 of 8 · Malaysia

Eating Our Way Through George Town

George Town might be our favorite city in Malaysia: UNESCO shophouses, street art that doesn't try too hard, and food worth planning a whole day around. We ate char kway teow and asam laksa and cendol and wished we had more time. We still talk about going back just to eat.

Southeast Asia on $70 a Day →
Leg 6 of 8 · Singapore

Two Days of Hawker Centres

Two days is not enough for Singapore, frankly. It was enough to eat our way through the hawker centres, walk the colonial district, and feel the ambition of a city-state that decided to take everything seriously. Next time gets a full week.

Eight Months in Southeast Asia →
Leg 7 of 8 · The Philippines

Four Days on a Boat

The Philippines came after weeks of mainland travel and felt like a reset: islands again, a different light. Manila, then Bohol and the Chocolate Hills, then Palawan — Puerto Princesa, the long road north to Port Barton, and El Nido. The four-day boat through the archipelago is slow and occasionally uncomfortable and completely worth it. You sleep on the boat. We came off it feeling like different people than the ones who got on.

Eight Months in Southeast Asia →
Orange beach umbrellas over turquoise water on Nusa Lembongan
Leg 8 of 8 · Indonesia

An Island Off an Island

A short boat ride off Bali there's a smaller island, and off that one, a smaller one still. Orange umbrellas, water you could read a book through, and no good reason to check the calendar. Nusa Lembongan is where we stopped counting days.

Southeast Asia on $70 a Day →
Farther Afield
12 countries together
8 months across Southeast Asia
5 seasons Karlee called St. John home

Europe we've mostly each crossed separately, a dozen countries between us, and only Switzerland shared. Those other maps belong to lives before we met. This one only keeps count of the miles we've made together.

The sage chapters are ours from before we met. Those pins open too.

The map is the outline. The stories are the point.

Together we have visited all 48 continental United States, plus Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia. Before we met, Jesse traveled South Africa and Karlee lived five seasons on St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands; we each backpacked Europe separately. Twenty-two places on these maps open a short story and a link to the full essay.